Jet setting: Copenhagen

As one of the most affluent, efficient and seamlessly designed cities in Europe, Copenhagen is also home to a unique squatter community that has, despite countless threats of eviction, managed to survive and thrive for close to 40 years. Today the self-governing commune consists of 850 residents spread across roughly 85 acres in the otherwise very posh borough of Christianshavn. The squat’s prime real estate location is the principal motivation for closing the area down, but Christiania is also the number one tourist attraction in Copenhagen and thus directly contributes to the wealth of the capital.

These days, Pusher Street doesn’t provide the organised variety of cannabis that it did a few years back but it does attract pot-smokers and dealers, and the citizens of Christiania often come under fire for this “problem”. But past the beer-garden, where visitors enjoy a beer, a smoke and a game of backgammon, is where the true magic of Christiania begins. Kooky houses shrouded in green and flower-lined paths make the surroundings idyllic enough to stir up hippie ideals in even the most conservative of hearts. It goes without saying that the rest of Copenhagen is also fabulous, though definitely more sleek than bohemian chic. Marvel at the architecture, ooh and aah in the design shops, rock out on the nightlife scene and do it all in the company of the friendly and fun-loving Danes.

Places

Illustration: Leona List

1 Klassik Moderne Møbelkunst
2 Rundetaarn
3 V1 Gallery
4 WAS
5 Danish Design Centre
6 Illums Bolighus
7 ArtRebels
8 Wood Wood
9 Bo Bech Bakery
10 Stilleben
11 Rützou
12 Henrik Vibskov
13 Melange de Luxe
14 Le Mont Blanc
15 Paludan Bøger
16 The Laundromat Café
17 Kalaset
18 Gavlen
19 Madklubben
20 LêLê nhà hang
21 Morgenstedet
22 Ida Davidsen
23 Restaurant Jacobsen
24 Bodega
25 Jolene
26 Karriere
27 DUB at Mono Bar
28 Kødboderne 18

City

The elegant city centre boasts the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe, and it is here and on the streets that spread off it that visitors tend to spend most of their time. Here you’ll also find the famous Tivoli, which as one of the oldest amusement parks in the world has a very distinctive charm.

Nørreobro

This feels like the most multi-cultural part of the city and though a little shabbier than the chic city centre, Nørrebro has a lot to offer in the way of cosy cafés, eateries that won’t break the bank and more second-hand shops than you can shake a stick at.

Østerbro

Home to yummy-mummies and the like, Østerbro is also the place to go for delicious delis, home interiors and the gorgeous and expansive Fælledparken.

Vesterbro

This area has undergone extensive renovation in the last years, and as more and more galleries and nightlife venues spring up and new residents move in for the central location, Vesterbro’s reputation as a centre for drugs and prostitution is transforming. This is where you’ll find the impossibly hip Kødbyen (old meat-packing district).

Christianshavn

That the artificial island of Christianshavn was inspired by Amsterdam is noticeable when you walk along its canals, cobbled streets and Dutch-style buildings. These days the area is home to a very diverse crowd from artists to businessmen, and aside from the fancy restaurants and cool bars, this is just the spot to stroll aimlessly while taking in an especially picturesque atmosphere.

Continue reading about: Art & Design and Shops

»BE INSPIRED«

The impeccable design and unfathomable efficiency of the Danish capital is present at every turn, from the impossibly elegant airport to the stylish practicality of the ‘cargo bikes’ (nihola.info) charging down double-track cycle lanes. Some of the city’s most spectacular architecture is best seen from the water, and for this purpose the canal tours, which leave at least every half- hour and also allow you the option to hop on and off, are a great option (canaltours.com). With so many major architectural disasters popping up in other European capitals, well-balanced Copenhagen provides a veritable haven for visitors that have had their tastes affronted at home. These are some other suggestions to pacify your thirst for inspired art and design.

Klassik Moderne Møbelkunst

Unfortunately out of the budget range for most of us mortals, this shop of Danish modern design classics does serve up a great big dose of inspiration to anyone with a penchant for the clean yet daring lines of the Scandinavian aesthetic.

Bredgade 3, City / +45 3333 9060

Rundetaarn

This round tower practically in the centre of the city provides beautiful views from the rooftop, and on the way up along the amazingly designed spiral ramp you can take a breather halfway at the exhibition space that holds exhibits on subjects ranging from the nineties’ underground painting scene, antiquity and Islamic art or graphic design across Europe.

Købmagergade 52A, City / +45 3373 0373

V1 Gallery

Founded in 2002, the V1 Gallery is the hottest ticket in town for emerging and established artists, and stays mostly true to its ambition to challenge both viewers and the norms with quality art that has both nerve and heart. Check the website for current exhibitions.

Flæsketorvet 69, Vesterbro

WAS

Headed up by charismatic multi-talent Simon Nygaard, the Wonderland concept first saw the light of day in the shape of a free-of-charge art publication, which soon won the hearts and minds of the creative underground. These days, Wonderland is also an inspiring young gallery, Wonderland Art Space, which is well worth the visit for the mix of Danish and international artists exhibited, and you might even score an invite to one of their infamous parties ...

Absalonsgade 21b, Vesterbro / +45 3322 3343

Danish Design Centre

Created to develop and promote Danish design nationally and internationally, the quality of a visit to the DDC is quite dependent on the exhibitions, which are at times a little dry. The DDC is still worth a visit though, if only for the great design souvenirs you can pick up in the museum shop.

HC Andersens Boulevard 27, City / +45 3369 3369

»WHERE TO SPEND IT«

The beautiful Danes and their admirable fashion sense will force you to get your spending shoes on. In the city centre there are plenty of boutiques pushing international designer wares (stigp.dk, gossipshop.dk, stormfashion.dk), but beyond this there are also some very original finds to be made.

Illums Bolighus

At the heart of the city district is this legendary homewares stores spread over four floors. Illums does the hard work for you by collecting the best of Scandinavian design all in the one fairly spacious and very elegant building.

Amagertorv 10, City / +45 3314 1941

ArtRebels

This is the home and office of the creative network of artists, designers, musicians and DJs that are making a name for themselves as ArtRebels. The shop in the meatpacking district is also used to host the occasional exhibition and other artsy events. But if you’re not going to make it to Copenhagen any time soon then you can check out all their wares at their online shop, too.

Flæsketorvet 17-19, Vesterbro

Wood Wood

Whether underground trends or high fashion, Wood Wood has got it covered. With their own brand together with fashion royalty like Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Bernhard Wilhelm and Henrik Vibskov, this is the definitive Copenhagen shopping experience – for man or woman!

Krystalgade 4-7, City / +4533936264

Bo Bech Bakery

The sourdough bread from star chef Bo Bech at the Restaurant Paustian became such a hit that it needed its very own outlet. The bread really is outstanding; definitely special enough to warrant the strange looks you’ll attract going through airport security with six loaves of bread for the home freezer.

Store Kongensgade 46, City / +45 33936264

Henrik Vibskov

Denmark was for a long time known only as a destination for homewares and furniture, but things are definitely happening in the fashion stakes and Henrik Vibskov, the patron saint of Danish fashion design, has a lot to do with this new-found claim to fame. Whether for women or men, Vibskov’s designs are totally original and always use super luxurious materials.

Krystalgade 6, City / +4533146100

Rützou

For the pleasure of discovering something new, head to Rützou and prepare to be seduced by the unique creations of Danish clothes designer Susanne Rützou. The designs are undeniably feminine yet manage to steer clear from anything too fussy. Add the use of absolutely gorgeous material, some clever detailing and – speaking from experience here – you have the sort of covetable collection from which you will simply have to have at least one or two items.

Store Regnegade 3, City

Mélange de Luxe

Nørrebro is littered with second-hand shops, but Melange de Luxe definitely has that special something; a luxury second-hand shop with a great atmosphere, where you can find Versace clutches and other – often sequinned – treasures. Lose yourself in fashion nostalgia to the hypnotic whirring noise of the hardworking sewing machine from the dressmaker’s room in the back.

Ravnsborggade 6B, Nørrebro / +45 2263 6575

Stilleben

Located on a great street in general for girly shopping, Stilleben is all about very original and totally gorgeous ceramics by Danish and other international designers.

Læderstræde 14, City / +45 3391 1131

Continue reading about cafes and eateries

»RECHARGE«

Café culture is alive and well in Copenhagen, but continental visitors take note: you are mostly expected to make your order and pay at the counter. For this reason it is also not expected that you tip – service is included. The cafés in the city centre can be very pricey, but there are more economic options in areas like Nørrebro or Vesterbro that are equally as charming.

Le Mont Blanc

Cheap, greasy pizza in a great central sunny location.

Svartegade 1a, City / +45 3391 2002

Paludan Bøger

From the outside this may look like the now ubiquitous coffee/book shop, though infinitely more stylish. Once inside, however, and down the stairs, you’ll find a most beautiful antiquary complete with grey-bearded bespectacled men in low-toned but intense intellectual discussion.

Fiolstræde 10, City / +45 3315 0675

The Laundromat Café

Potentially the world’s hippest laundrette, the Laundromat Café also impresses with a no-fuss menu, very friendly service and rows upon rows of candy coloured paperbacks sorted by colour. Great coffee too!

Elmegade 15, Nørrebro / +45 3535 2672

Kalaset

This is the brunch destination extraordinaire. Whether herbivore, carnivore or omnivore – all are deliciously catered for. The servings are generous and all come with something that is just a little bit out of the ordinary even if it’s home-made ketchup for the burger. The interior is Bohemian and quirky and altogether creates an environment you’ll be happy to spend most of the afternoon in.

Vendersgade 16, City / +4533330035

Gavlen

A locals’ kind of a place with a classic interior layout dominated by a big bar. With plenty of beers to choose from and perfectly decent food at fair prices, you’ll understand why people come back time and again.

Ryesgade 1, Nørrebro / +45 35370237

»VELBEKOMME«

There is no shortage of Michelin awarded eateries in this city, but finding more modestly priced eateries can be difficult. A good tip, however, is heading to multicultural Nørrebro, where along Nørrebrogade you can pick up a falafel wrap and the like on the quick. Around Sankt Hans Torv there are also a number of less expensive places to sit down for lunch or dinner. Here are some others not to miss.

Madklubben

A self-anointed ‘Bistro de Luxe’, Madklubben impresses as much with the comfortable elegance of its interior (virtually every table could be your favourite spot) as with their range of wines and the bistro menu based on Scandinavian specialties.

Store Kongensgade 66, City

LêLê nhà hang

This Vietnamese ‘street kitchen’ is currently experiencing some serious hype with a mixed group of patrons only too happy to have a drink or two at the bar while waiting for a table (reservations are not possible). With an expansive loft style interior that still manages to be cosy and super delicious dishes, it’s safe to say that the popularity is well deserved.

Vesterbrogade 40, Vesterbro

Morgenstedet

Vegetarians don’t really have an easy time in meat-happy Denmark, but head to Morgenstedet in Christiania and enjoy locally grown, organic meals at very fair prices. The homely atmosphere and idyllic set outdoor patio should also be enough to appease any frustrated carnivores.

Fabriksområdet 134, Christiania

Ida Davidsen

A visit to Copenhagen wouldn’t really be complete without partaking of what might be considered the Danish national dish, smørrebrød. These open sandwiches are best washed down with a beer and a Gammeldansk at Ida Davidsen, an establishment with decades of experience.

Store Kongensgade 70, City / +45 3391 3655

Restaurant Jacobsen

Submerge yourself completely in Danish design! At Restaurant Jacobsen, the building and practically the entire interior was designed by the world famous architect and designer. At the location just north of Copenhagen, you’ll also have a fine view of the sea and Sweden. After the meal, drive a little further and fill up your motor at the Arne Jacobsen designed petrol station. For real!

Strandvejen 449, Klampenborg / +45 3963 4322

Continue reading about clubs and hotels

»HAVE A BALL!«

While not known as a clubbing destination, there is no shortage of swanky bars and sweaty dancefloors in this city. Night owls are somewhat restricted by the 5am curfew at club venues, but there are some morning pubs called ‘Morgenværtshus’ where committed revellers can get their last beers in.

Bodega

Leading somewhat

of a double life, Bodega goes through the week as quite a lovely café open until 9pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but check out the transformation on Fridays and Saturdays when the place hosts DJs and turns into a hip, happening Nørrebro bar.

Kapelvej 1, Nørrebro / +45 3539 0707

Jolene

A favourite of Danish fashion legend Henrik Vibskov and Trentemøller, who is known to mix records there on random nights, this bar/music venue in the meat-packing district is also a firm favourite with smokers as they get their own little room to play in.

Flæsketorvet 81-85, Vesterbro

Karriere

World famous conceptual artist O

lafur Eliasson is responsible for the design of this bar and music venue, and it looks – in a word – amazing! A definite must-see.

Flæsketorvet 57-67, Vesterbro / +45 3321 5509

DUB at Mono Bar

This very centrally located gem of a bar is very cleverly hidden in a beautiful old courtyard. The bar has rather random opening times so check the website first, but finding it will be well worth your while, especially on Wednesdays when Copenhagen’s hedonist elite fuelled on the first-class cocktails from behind the bar are let loose to the sounds of – among o

thers – the city’s rising star, DJ Massimo.

Østergade 24c (Pistolstræde), City

Kødboderne 18

Housed in a massive former butcher hall in Copenhagen’s old meat packing district, Kødboderne 18 (KB18 for short) has all the makings of an underground clubbing classic. Reputably the only club with a consistently interesting line-up, the music policy focuses on the electronic variety but can consist of dancehall or minimal depending on the booking on the night. Fairly new on the scene, KB18 is fast becoming a favourite with its weathered walls and ‘anything goes’ attitude.

Kødboderne 18, Vesterbro

»GET SOME SLEEP«

First Hotel Skt. Petri

Located in Krystalgade close to Copenhagen’s main shopping boulevard Strøget, the Royal Palace and the hottest nightlife spots, Hotel Skt. Petri is housed in a slick 1920s building originally intended to be a department store. Danish artist Per Arnoldi decked out the rooms in a bold, tricolour, contemporary scheme which sounds more interesting than it actually is. However, the Lobby is quite a sight and so are the views onto one of the prettiest parts of town, so opt for a room with a terrace. The hotel’s lounges and bars are a popular destination del mode for the fashion flock during Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Krystalgade 22 / +45 (0) 33459100 /

Hotel Fox

Two in one: the Fox is hotel and gallery space in one, since each of its 61 rooms has been individually decorated by international artists from the fields of graphic design, urban art and illustration. The outcome is a playful, eye-popping extravaganza from the sophisticated to the ridiculous. If you don’t want your stay to turn into some psychedelic nightmare make sure to book your room of choice well ahead. The hotel opened its doors in 2005 so the interior has probably seen better days. However, with its great location, a nice breakfast and a happening lobby, the Fox is a good choice for a younger clientele about to hit the town at night.

Jarmers Plads 3 / +45 (0)33133000

Hotel Guldsmeden

Instead of following the pack and doing Scandinavian cool, Sandra and Marc Weinert’s little chain of hotels (there are four in Denmark, a resort in Bali, and a small villa hotel in the south of France) are all about charm, warm ambiance and, most importantly, an eco-friendly feel. The furniture is made from sustainably-sourced teak and bamboo, the lavish breakfast buffet sports the freshest organic products from nearby farms, and even the toiletries and the mini-bar are environmentally approved. Located in the revitalised area of Vesterbro (the former red-light district), the Guldsmeden hotels are serene inner city refuges with an attentive service for some serious relaxation.

Hotel Front

Newly taken over by the Scandic Group the Hotel Front has a prime waterfront pitch opposite the new Opera House and just a stroll away from the photogenic canal Nyhavn. The decor is modern with a rich, color pallet featuring black, earthy and bold hues as well as some sprawled design classics. The place boasts super-friendly service, the most comfy beds in Copenhagen and a free mini-bar.

21 Skt. Annæ Plads / City / Tel. +45 (0) 33 13 34 00