As the year slowly falls away, so too does the amount of free time we have. People rush hither and, occasionally, thither on their way to holiday errands. Minds look back over the preceding months and are consumed with self-satisfaction or lamentation. The blue of the sky is immense, the cold white of the ground evoking memories of the Void. Not much time at all.
That’s why we’re here. We want to help you. Why DIY when we can DIFY? Look, see:
Pictureplane‘s Travis Egedy was brought into our embrace with his new column GOLDEN BLONDE. A new visual delight from NU DEPTH accompanies.
The dream-soaked Visions was Grimes’ perfect pop statement, and comes recommended by us as one of our top picks for the year.
Doldrums lurks beneath a veneer of Lesser Evil but is purely peaceful.
Nourishment was given in the form of Fast Food. Warmth, however, was rejected for cold: we’re comfy in nihilism with Audioccult and a selection of albums for depression. What brings our InmostLight out again? Clothing ourselves in BlackBlackGold and filling our eyes with selections from Louise. A great Birthday Party is planned for you.
This was the week.
Now you may go. ~
Recently, EB editor Daniel went on a jaunt to Budapest, a-flexin’ his big ol’ mixing muscles as BlackBlackGold for the exquisite pleasure of the beautiful young things of the city who attended NERO Homme‘s launch party. How come? Well, that’s just the kind of lifestyle we (he) lead(s) here at EBHQ. This right here is the download premiere of that night’s set—an excursion into marginally poppier waters than you may expect from the BBG camp, but still with the inky black undertow that you know and love. Missy? Nicki? Destiny’s Child?! C’mon, download already. Cop the tracklist below.
Fashion Hell Intro
Rell The Soundbender – Angels & Demons feat. Clint Mansell
Watapachi & Transcend The Masses – Let’s Get Ratchet
Rihanna – Pour It Up (RL Grime Remix)
RL Grime – Flood
Chippy Nonstop – Money Dance (Ryan Marks Remix)
Crystal Castles – Pale Flesh (BlackBlackGold Black Choppa Mass Extension)
Blvck Ceiling – I Will Save You Blondie (BlackBlackGold GhettoGoth Edit)
Missy Elliot – Lose Control (Stabber VIP)
DJ Scream – Hood Rich Anthem (Huggy Bear Remix)
Azealia Banks – 212 (Wicked Awesome Remix)
Crime Mob – Stilettos (Falcon Remix)
Nicki Minaj – Beez In The Trap (Knuckle Remix)
Destiny’s Child – Say My Name (Owls & Bodhi Remix)
Divoli S’vere – She CKunt (Total Freedom’s Transformative mix at Starbucks / thank you Easyjet bitch!)
Ghostek – Navigate (Pt. 2)
Nine Inch Nails VS Coil – The Downward Spiral / A Gilded Sickness
Vatican Shadow – Chechnya’s Ghosts Loom Large In Death Of Former Spy
Nancy Sinatra VS The Notorious B.I.G – Bang Bang
Jeremy Scott – Sycamore Trees
What’s that? You want to know what’s been going in our minds this week, reverberating our synapses and sending broader vibrations throughout our bodies and by extension our souls? Today’s choice picks come from EB editor Daniel Jones.
The Cult – Elemental Light (SALEM Remix)
Admittedly chosen because it’s a bit curious that The Cult, of all bands, would request a SALEM remix. I’m even more curious to see what The Cult’s legion of ancient ex-goth rocker fans will think of this. It’s cool, don’t get me wrong; maybe I’d be a bit more excited if it had been one of their earlier tracks. Southern Screw Cult?
A beautiful new magazine founded by the stunning Hungarian stylist and entrepreneur Sophie Rotas, NERO Homme recently launched its premiere issue in Budapest, and will be launching in Berlin next month as well. The focus on the first issue is ‘Body Confidence’, and as a weird-looking/moving guy I can relate. There’s plenty of beauty tucked inside: Emika, Actually Huizenga, Matt Lambert, David Metcalfe, DSTM… These are just a few need-to-know names you’ll find.
Got cold feet? Get caught up slippin’? Sounds like you needs some catspad socks! These are quite possibly the best socks if, like me, you prefer draping yourself in loose warm layers of clothing and avoiding cold weather as much as possible. These are pure indoor comfort; wearing them out in the world is pointless because they’re just going to make your feet stank, but for leisure they’re amazing. You can sneak around on them, or go completely ape, brutal bounces and bellyflops all over the nice wood floor but guess what: you’re going to be stable as your table because your socks have chunks of rubber to ensure plenty of traction with your action.
Light a candle. Draw the required sigils. Now, raise your arms above your head and slowly, gently, exhale your soul. You won’t need it here. This is Audioccult, and it’s time to get low. Illustration: Simone Klimmeck
Everything feels like it’s happening lately. Seeing Le1f finally blow up this year has been a delight. Vatican Shadow has filled a musical void I didn’t even know was in me. The Rihanna Plane situation has provided laffs aplenty thanks to crazy fun + spoiled popstar, though I legit hope the plane lands at some point and they open the door and a slurry of bones pours out because I haven’t seen X-Files in a while. And, of course, all that other stuff.
As I’ve been writing this column for something like half a year now, I’ve presented various genres of music and odd bits of writing to the ever-vague Reader, which I suppose is you. Hello, you. I hope you’ve been pleased or repulsed by this column. One of those, or something else. I hope for a response, on any level, because it’s Cool to Feel. Even if it’s just via standing close to the speaker during a hot bass rumble.
I’ve been editing music more than I’ve been listening to it these last few weeks. As this year has progressed, so too has my career as a DJ. Yes, anyone can do it, but not everyone can do it well. I suspect my secret has more to do with my tendon-stretched, hyper-alien dance moves and penchant for occasionally taking off my clothing than any great technical ability, but having a weird way of looking at things is another good tool. I’m more inspired by the idea of mashups than proper remixes: the idea of taking two things and making something new and unintended is very appealing to me. This is also why I have so many kids. Bad dad.
The next edition of Audioccult will be a live mix from my debut appearance in Budapest, where I’ll be DJing for the launch party of the fashion-as-art magazine NERO Homme. This marks the first occasion I’ve performed at a fashion event. Although the aesthetics of KTZ, Damir Doma and the like are all very much my shit, I’m not really a fashion person. Give me a nice piece of clothing and in two days it’ll have a pizza stain. The few fashion people who’ve shown up to my parties usually stand off to the side for a bit, then leave once the clothing starts coming off. I’m sure it will be fun, however, and I always aim to please. I have a very ritualistic set planned, pieces that are introspective and deep and personal to me. I’ll probably just play R&B and trap, though. It’s all about that fast money, baby!
David Metcalfe is not someone you’d immediately think of as a model. Despite boyish good looks topping a tall, muscularly lean frame, Metcalfe is heavily tattooed (both professional and stick ‘n’ poke) and intellectually brooding; you’d sooner picture him fronting a powernoise group than walking down a runway. Yet this high-fashion hooligan, still at the beginning of his career, has modeled for Lanvin, met with Dior, and been the subject of countless photoshoots. Tattoos are hardly wild news in high fashion, but it is Metcalfe’s ability to project emotional extremes frighteningly well that make him so sought after. Yet in person he’s quietly charming, a hard-partying lad who’s found himself in a strange and fascinating situation. As a person who makes a living embedded within the music scene, I find it intriguing how little the two worlds collide on a social level, despite often being packaged together. So I sat down with him to get a taste of life behind the runway.
How did you get into modeling?
It was a combination of chance and necessity. I want to earn a living but, like most people, I also want to do it pretty much the easiest way possible. I’d been in Berlin for about two weeks before I was casted on the street just outside Görlitzer Park. I got work in a video for Calvin Harris, which led to other offers. After that, another guy I knew said to me, “I’ve signed up to this agency, come in and see what they say”. Which I did, and they said quite a lot of good things, actually. Within two weeks I was in Paris walking for Lanvin, going to castings and I spent like two and a half weeks or three weeks in Paris. Then from there it’s just been pretty consistent with editorial work. Locally I’ve just finished a shoot with Matt Lambert for Nero Homme, as well as a Lookbook shooting for Darklands.
Had you considered the idea before?
Not at all. I come from a standpoint where I find the whole social area in which the fashion world operates slightly ridiculous. That was my definitely perspective on it before I got involved in it: vain, absurd, self-perpetuating and self-referential—a worldview completely consumed with appearance and image, removed of substance. But, having been involved in that world, I can say that it does afford opportunities that I would not have otherwise. Certain people that I met in Paris that were not directly involved in fashion, had a lot of interesting things to do and say. For example, I met this woman Clara who DJs at Silencio, which is the club designed by David Lynch. We just lived there, rolling with them, being immersed with people that actually know Paris and getting shown around in places that are just beneath this touristic visible level. Like any other job, modeling is a role to be played for the promise of money. But it’s also a very static world, the social validation placed on being a model or being seen as a beautified body is very heavy. It’s very easy to get consumed by that image, which is something I never wanted to be a part of.
It can be like some kind of rock star thing, I see people talking about models the way some people are talking about their favorite musicians and that seems really absurd. It really takes away from the entire point, I think.
This is really a very interesting point, how someone who is in reality not doing very much, not creating anything but literally there as a hollow appearance, a mannequin for other people to put their creative efforts on top of you, layer on top of you.
This is why I really appreciate Maison Martin Margiela’s jeweled masks. Not only does it remove the element of humanization, but when you remove the predictability of facial expression (which tends to be blank and moody on runway models anyway) it allows the models to express themselves more through movement. A good model should be like an actor, I think.
For sure, it’s a role that you have to learn, that you have to play well to get more work and to keep that going as a career. You have to play by the rules of the game. It’s all about visibility in modeling, how visible you are and on what level. I went to the Givenchy party in Silencio and the view was fucking ridiculous; crowds were fighting out on the street to get into that club, everyone is watching who’s getting in, who’s coming out. It’s like a microcosm of the politics of social validation, which actually I find incredibly interesting.
The diversity of all the weird little social cliques would probably make for a fascinatingly empty study. Like a high school, with better clothes and better drugs.
Even in that incredibly small and confined space of that club, it was easy to spot the specific crowds— from the designers and people working with the designers to kids that are like perpetuating that particular style to the models, to the people who are just associated with it, but not directly involved.
How different would you say it is from a music scene?
I think there are a lot of parallels there, but obviously I would hold music up to be a higher form of art than fashion design. I believe that music is the one art form that most truly reflects life, because it’s not static— it’s dynamic, more directly influencing your experience. Whereas if I see a piece of clothing, I can appreciate it aesthetically but it’s not creating this moving experience. Regardless of the craft or the creativity involved in making that piece of clothing it’s still a material good: it exists for the point of consumption only. But if we are going back to the point of scene politics it’s almost the same thing, just a question of material being used and the art being created. This is also one of the things I’m quite critical of in the fashion world, that it only keeps itself going through self-reference and the constant cycle of seasons. Creating new garments to be sold in a potential future, garments that are just a recycling of what was before. Baudrillard said that we’ve reached the point where we’ve come to the end of history, and now that we are beyond the end there is no end in sight. This works fairly well with the fashion world. I believe the only way to create meaning is with an ending, but with fashion it’s always completely unending.
But as much as I can be critical of the fashion world (which people should be), I’m not dismissive of it, because it has afforded me a lot of opportunities I’m very grateful for. It’s certainly a very seductive world to be in. You’re surrounded by beautiful people with money, people for whom excessive high-living is daily ritual. It’s incredibly harsh to disentangle yourself once you are involved. I’m just there as the image. Not even the medium, the bit just beneath the medium. I’m afraid I could become lost in the image…consumed by it.